A short presentation of last night, and the attempt at a cultural poetic reading of Jeans ...
Susan Sontag opened in 1964 its 58 "Notes on Camp," which should be closer to the reader the aesthetic perspective "camp" with a quote from Oscar Wilde:
Susan Sontag opened in 1964 its 58 "Notes on Camp," which should be closer to the reader the aesthetic perspective "camp" with a quote from Oscar Wilde:
"One should either be a work of art or a work of art bear. "
nice if this would work with the jeans that simple ...
anniversary a few days ago, the "Bread & Butter" , the German jeans fair, for the tenth time, filled with a number of 600 exhibitors and expected 90,000 visitors to the disused airport in Berlin Tempelhof, the Berlin's new hot spot of the cultural, to be read as a blueprint for Adorno's finding of the culture industry is not difficult. As a mega event, the fair is now expanding to Barcelona, where at last gathered all 50,000 people to celebrate the denim and explore as the garment and the product of a lucrative market. In short: the jeans are popular, they are the pants for everyone and every woman who fills the wardrobes of the world. But what exactly is in fact the jeans, and (how) they can be described as poetic culture?
In the following, an attempt will be made to understand the jeans as a text that can be read culturally in order to illuminate the more worn trousers in its characterization from the perspective of Susan Sontag, in light of their "Notes on Camp" . A brief summary of the history of jeans in the trial opens, therefore, the criteria, the Sontag published in 1964 to short-circuit in a few short approaches with the jeans. It should of course be found as the jeans and their symbolic charge stands today, which in the end by the specific example of an American punk band should again be emphasized.
Jeans are old, took its origin just as early as 1600, when it was developed in Nîmes in southern France, a very durable material that Serge de Nîmes , later renamed with a loose tongue in Denim . Levi Strauss in 1853 was that hemp fabric to America, manufactured from a sturdy work pants for gold diggers. This was always better, and her face continued to evolve: the rivet reinforced pockets, seams were orange, the blue fabric. Strauss jeans and another visionary, Jacob Davis left, to patent their ideas, their practical garment then sold to cowboys, farmers and wood chipper. This has more to do even the original character of the jeans: a durable pants for the worker, for the rough-guy who can pick and pay for his sometimes dirty. established from the 1920s, then the term Blue Jeans , since the pants almost only available in blue color - the use of clothing gets almost a fashion vision - in the 30's replaced the belt off the braces, 1948, the jeans will be in Germany introduced five years later, the new leg dress formally for the woman put on the market (with the zipper on the modest side, so the jeans were also embedded in the gender discourse) et voila - 90 600 bipeds at Berlin Tempelhof, probably dressed in blue denim : a success story!
In the 50s, the decade of the permanent transfer of jeans from the working situation in the everyday, learned the pants once a symbolic charge. by films like "A Streetcar Named Desire" with Marlon Brando or "... for they know not what they" do with James Dean - films that Sontag takes up not in their catalog, from today's perspective might be however quite "camp" - was the jeans to the uniform of the misfits, the symbol of youthfulness, sexiness, rebellion and revolt, and certainly Elvis has taken one or the other plays his hip movement in a pair of jeans, so were jeans and Rock'n'Roll . In the 60 years it was the hippies then already deconstructed -, painted, repaired and cut - was wearing almost with a medium for a generation, to their desired autonomy to the outside, later in the street fighting for just this then for a short time, the uniform of the "Street Fighting Man" (with Mick Jagger in his chauvinism the "Street Fighting Woman" forgot). With the flare-section she found a new mutation, which marks the latest moment at which it was not as improper work pants, but rather the subject of the fashion world in the sense of a market. The 70s and 80s were also marked by the jeans rounder ; by the omnipresence of the department store rack, on television and in the passages paved slowly to an acceptance, which separated the jeans from her image as a uniform of the young and wild, they rose to normal clothing (or, depending on your perspective, sat down). The jeans had become many faces, so there was next to the classics and various Cut the hand look Stonewashed , marble Jeans, carrot, tube, etc., and the different patterns often acted as a foil for different lifestyles! In the 90s it Stalled short and big companies of jeans production, at least in the design, Rap brought the baggy - but, oh miracle, even this was often made of denim! Today everyone has a pair of jeans at home, no matter whether it is perceived as a philistine, as asocial, sexy, come down, boring or all at once: the jeans to this perception does not change, it does not help and do not mind.
After a long journey of shifting of the symbolism and the waist These jeans arrived almost into insignificance, no longer serves the outer wear for a membership or deferred to a specific peer group or age group!
And what Susan Sontag would say to the jeans? Well, first of all, they would probably find very clear: the jeans is not "camp" ! If the jeans a mass-produced product, which was in the original design once produced useful and seriously meant, from today's perspective, however, completely covered and missed, worked a bit cheesy and out of time, the wearer would notice through his trousers at all, its special flavor mark clearly can and thus part of a small distinctive group of individuals will have this support, the jeans maybe even found in the wardrobe of the grandparents, of necessity, because they would have disappeared in the form recently from the department stores of this world - then could a pair of jeans at the beginning of the 21 . his century "camp" . But the opposite is the case, which may well have made no later than this year's "Bread & Butter" significantly.
And thought otherwise? The jeans may not now "camp" , it could in the future, but certainly at some point once. One would the jeans just remember, they discover again and take in a small elite group to be a tongue in cheek aesthetic of taste with this then be defined as kitschy perceived something beyond the belt from the rest of the world. The time set in the "Camp" -art is a great role, so must be something in Susan Sontag's words demod - be out of fashion - to be reinterpreted by "camp" :
In the following, an attempt will be made to understand the jeans as a text that can be read culturally in order to illuminate the more worn trousers in its characterization from the perspective of Susan Sontag, in light of their "Notes on Camp" . A brief summary of the history of jeans in the trial opens, therefore, the criteria, the Sontag published in 1964 to short-circuit in a few short approaches with the jeans. It should of course be found as the jeans and their symbolic charge stands today, which in the end by the specific example of an American punk band should again be emphasized.
Jeans are old, took its origin just as early as 1600, when it was developed in Nîmes in southern France, a very durable material that Serge de Nîmes , later renamed with a loose tongue in Denim . Levi Strauss in 1853 was that hemp fabric to America, manufactured from a sturdy work pants for gold diggers. This was always better, and her face continued to evolve: the rivet reinforced pockets, seams were orange, the blue fabric. Strauss jeans and another visionary, Jacob Davis left, to patent their ideas, their practical garment then sold to cowboys, farmers and wood chipper. This has more to do even the original character of the jeans: a durable pants for the worker, for the rough-guy who can pick and pay for his sometimes dirty. established from the 1920s, then the term Blue Jeans , since the pants almost only available in blue color - the use of clothing gets almost a fashion vision - in the 30's replaced the belt off the braces, 1948, the jeans will be in Germany introduced five years later, the new leg dress formally for the woman put on the market (with the zipper on the modest side, so the jeans were also embedded in the gender discourse) et voila - 90 600 bipeds at Berlin Tempelhof, probably dressed in blue denim : a success story!
In the 50s, the decade of the permanent transfer of jeans from the working situation in the everyday, learned the pants once a symbolic charge. by films like "A Streetcar Named Desire" with Marlon Brando or "... for they know not what they" do with James Dean - films that Sontag takes up not in their catalog, from today's perspective might be however quite "camp" - was the jeans to the uniform of the misfits, the symbol of youthfulness, sexiness, rebellion and revolt, and certainly Elvis has taken one or the other plays his hip movement in a pair of jeans, so were jeans and Rock'n'Roll . In the 60 years it was the hippies then already deconstructed -, painted, repaired and cut - was wearing almost with a medium for a generation, to their desired autonomy to the outside, later in the street fighting for just this then for a short time, the uniform of the "Street Fighting Man" (with Mick Jagger in his chauvinism the "Street Fighting Woman" forgot). With the flare-section she found a new mutation, which marks the latest moment at which it was not as improper work pants, but rather the subject of the fashion world in the sense of a market. The 70s and 80s were also marked by the jeans rounder ; by the omnipresence of the department store rack, on television and in the passages paved slowly to an acceptance, which separated the jeans from her image as a uniform of the young and wild, they rose to normal clothing (or, depending on your perspective, sat down). The jeans had become many faces, so there was next to the classics and various Cut the hand look Stonewashed , marble Jeans, carrot, tube, etc., and the different patterns often acted as a foil for different lifestyles! In the 90s it Stalled short and big companies of jeans production, at least in the design, Rap brought the baggy - but, oh miracle, even this was often made of denim! Today everyone has a pair of jeans at home, no matter whether it is perceived as a philistine, as asocial, sexy, come down, boring or all at once: the jeans to this perception does not change, it does not help and do not mind.
After a long journey of shifting of the symbolism and the waist These jeans arrived almost into insignificance, no longer serves the outer wear for a membership or deferred to a specific peer group or age group!
And what Susan Sontag would say to the jeans? Well, first of all, they would probably find very clear: the jeans is not "camp" ! If the jeans a mass-produced product, which was in the original design once produced useful and seriously meant, from today's perspective, however, completely covered and missed, worked a bit cheesy and out of time, the wearer would notice through his trousers at all, its special flavor mark clearly can and thus part of a small distinctive group of individuals will have this support, the jeans maybe even found in the wardrobe of the grandparents, of necessity, because they would have disappeared in the form recently from the department stores of this world - then could a pair of jeans at the beginning of the 21 . his century "camp" . But the opposite is the case, which may well have made no later than this year's "Bread & Butter" significantly.
And thought otherwise? The jeans may not now "camp" , it could in the future, but certainly at some point once. One would the jeans just remember, they discover again and take in a small elite group to be a tongue in cheek aesthetic of taste with this then be defined as kitschy perceived something beyond the belt from the rest of the world. The time set in the "Camp" -art is a great role, so must be something in Susan Sontag's words demod - be out of fashion - to be reinterpreted by "camp" :
30 . Of course, the canon of Camp are changing. Time plays a big role. Time can make valuable what seems to us today simply dogged and unimaginative, because we do not have enough distance, aging is not [...] their leaves things "campy" be, but the decline of our participation in them and our ability to enjoy the failed attempt, rather disappointed to be [1] .
happened Until then, the jeans but not "camp" , even if there already been attempts to make something similar from it. For example, before the skinny jeans came back into fashion, she was regarded as the completely covered remnants of an era in rock music today ridiculed or at most ironic is exaggerated, but there were little scenes subversive character, her awards for the added value that also "Camp" adheres art. Here was something common mistake as the history of fashion suddenly understood, with a specific aesthetic perspective pure distinction and identity. But Trend researchers discovered in their desperate search for a new innovation, the skinny jeans and took them in today's market, so they, too, had played as a potential candidate for the "Camp" heritage.
Jeans are neither "camp" , nor is it serious resources to itself after Foreign defining point. It was from the market and in parallel by the majority of consumers served, does not differ from other clothing, most in the fact that she is more popular and more successful. That's not bad, it should not be forgotten that it is one as a practical garment, above all: pants! It therefore needs a tool if you want to return the jeans their former importance of misfits, a statement about it, will make a conclusion.
Einspieler: Pissed Jeans - Human Upskirt (King Of Jeans, Sub Pop 2009)
The American Noise Rock Band "Pissed Jeans" of which we have just had a quick sample, combines the jeans with all its meaning, which exists in the collective cultural consciousness, with the addition Pissed what to suggest here is to be anti-social, not socially acceptable punk . In the 60 years the band would likely " The Jeans' gehießen, at the time worked the connotation of the garment to meet even without the addition of body fluids in order to make a statement about the character of the protagonists in a band and their music. Today Pants must be full peed, so the jeans arrived in society. Susan Sontag wrote in 1964: "Camp sees everything in quotation marks" [2] . The property Pissed , the organic liquid equivalent, in the example this quotation, it will return the jeans in exaggerated manner, a meaning which it has long since lost, to make them as a band name for a punk band attractive.
[1] Sontag, Susan: Notes "Camp" (1964). In: Art and Anti-art. 24 literary analysis, Frankfurt am Main 2006, p. 333
[2] Ibid., 327
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